Food and Drink

Due to numerous foreign invasions, the natives fled the coast and set camp in the mountainous interiors, surviving on farming. This is the reason why local cuisine is primarily meat based.

Pretty much almost any part of the animal is prepared in some way or other. Recipes vary according to location, but roast suckling pig and baby lamb (when in season, i.e. early November to Easter) are traditional dishes across the island. Another popular dish is boiled mutton. Donkey meat dishes are exceptionally tasty, but quite difficult to find nowadays.

Fish, which is best eaten around the coast, is usually grilled and served without sauces. Alternatives are stewed fish or in a tomato sauce (a remnant of the Genoa domination). Unusual addition is fish baked under a dome of salt which has a steaming effect. Not to be missed is the famous Aragosta alla Catalana served with olive oil, fresh onions and tomatoes. Sardinians are also exceedingly fond of eels which they cook in a variety of ways.

Standard land starters are: cured meats (ham, sausages, bacon, capocollo); preserved vegetables such as artichokes, cardoons and wild asparagus; vegetable fritters; pan fried offal or intestines; panadas (small pies stuffed with meat and vegetables or stewed eels). Sea starters commonly include thinly sliced bottarga (dried mullet row) with a dash of olive oil and lemon, mussels and clams in a light white wine or tomato sauce, octopus salad and pan fried sea anemones.

First courses are excellent everywhere. The absolute must to be tried are: cheese or ricotta ravioli (dumplings); sardinian gnochetti alla Campidanese (small pasta shapes in a tomato and meat sauce); spaghetti with bottarga (dried mullet row), sea urchins (only when in season) or clams; fregola (granular shaped pasta) served in vegetable, meat or fish soups. Beans and vegetable soups are all delicious.

With exception of very large supermarkets, only “in season” fruit and vegetables are available. Locals normally buy from producers (there are family run farmers’ grocery stores everywhere).

Cheese

The famous ewes cheese Pecorino Sardo is a DOC registered brand. From delicate and creamy when fresh, it becomes strong and spicy when matured.

Casu Marzu is a pecorino cheese riddled with live worms. It is an exceptional Sardinian delicacy, so spicy that it is best eaten on bread.

Drinks

• Red wines are quite sturdy and robust. The most widespread grape is Cannonau (grenache grape).

• The light and crispy Vermentino is the most popular white wine.

• Vernaccia, produced only in the Oristano area, is like a dry sherry.

• Red Mirto (rosso) is the local digestive made of wild myrtle berries, whereas White Mirto (bianco) is made with the buds.

• Filu e Ferru/ Acquavite (Fire Water ) is a very strong spirit which should be drank with caution.

• Moscato is a lovely sweet desert wine.

• Malvasia is a delightful sweet or dry wine from Bosa, it can be drunk any time of the day but is often offered lightly chilled as an aperitif.

Restaurants

Opening hours are 12 to 3 lunch time and 8 to 11 for dinner.

A cheaper alternative to restaurants are Pizzerie, i.e. pizza joints which usually serve more than pizza. They all charge Coperto, that is bread and setting, of about €2=, vegetables always have to be ordered as side dishes. Most restaurants, on request, are happy to provide a selection of local delicacies for you to taste – ask for Menu Degustazione.

The best way to sample farmers’ traditional fare is in Agriturismo (Farm Stay). Their specialties are home made with produce from the farm. Agriturismos are cheap but they only offer a fixed menu. Advanced booking is essential, as these are real working farms.

Restaurant Reviews: Our recommendations

Places where you can eat good value for money quality food and enjoy decent service.

Agriturismo Sa Mandra - Alghero
Loc. Sa Segada. Tel: +39 079 999150

Farmers’ fare, well prepared and with respect for tradition.

Bounty - Castelsardo
Via Lamarmora, 12. Tel: +39 079 479043

Outstanding fish dishes and good service. Located within the castle walls.

L'Approdo - Palau
Via Fonte Vecchia, 50. Tel: +39 0789 708243/ 870028.

Excellent fish restaurant with good service.

Coop. Enis - Oliena
Loc. Monte Maccione. Tel: +39 0784 288363

Delicious home made specialties served with excellent local wine, service is friendly and efficient. Splendid mountain location ideal for trekking and relaxation.

Hotel Restaurant CK - Oliena
Corso Martin-Luther-King 2/4. Tel: +39 0784 288721

Good traditional mountain fare and pizzas. Friendly service and inexpensive.

Hotel Restaurant Sant’ Elene - Dorgali
Loc. Sant'Elene. Tel: +39 0784 94572

Simple local dishes but well prepared, excellent service and very good prices. A bit of a drive uphill but you will not regret it when you step on the terrace to admire the breathtaking views.

Restaurant L'Oasi - Teti
Via trento 10. Tel: +39 0784 68211

It only serves a seasonal set menu, but you will roll out totally stuffed and fulfilled. Good service and excellent prices. Advanced booking essential.

Hotel Restaurant Sant’Efisio - Talana
Loc. Sant'Efisio, 1. Tel: +39 0782 646921; Mob: 3383591742

Quality home made traditional feast. The menu is limited but service is good and so are prices. Advanced booking essential.

Restaurant Da Armando - Sedilo.
Loc. Talasai, 1. Tel: +39 0785 568043

Good traditional dishes with a touch of originality, good prices and efficient service.

Forchetta D’oro - Oristano
Via Giovanni XXIII. Tel: +39 0783 302731

Good Fish restaurant at fair prices and service.

Ristorante Pizzeria La Torre – Oristano
Piazza Roma, 52. Tel: +39 0783 301494

Very good pizzas and simple fish and meat dishes (excellent horse steaks) all served in a friendly and pleasant atmosphere at sensible prices.

Hotel Restaurant Monreale - Sardara
Via Oristano 197. Tel: +39 070 9387907

Simple but well prepared fish dishes. You can choose your fish from the display. Service is attentive and prices are reasonable.

Soffio di Vento - Arbus
Loc. Genna'e Frongia. Tel: +39 070 9756022

Superior food, impeccable service, reasonably priced and wonderful panoramic views from the terrace.

Da Franco - Cagliari
Viale Monastir, 184. Tel: +39 070 530546

Very fresh local fish you can choose from the display, cooked simply but with mastery. Excellent prices and service. Located in the outskirts of town, best to go there on your way in or out.

Expensive options, but well worth it

Hotel Restaurant Su Gologone - Oliena
Loc. Su Gologone. Tel: +39 0784 287512

Fine traditional cuisine, impeccable service and stunning location.

Hotel Restaurant L’Agnata - Tempio Pausania
Loc. Agnata. Tel: +39 079 671384

Very good rustic set menu. Good service and lovely setting. Advanced booking required.

Not So Good

Il Vicere - Alghero, Via Sant'Erasmo, 14.

Very expensive with indifferent food and rude service.

Da Franco - Palau, Via Capo d'Orso, 1.

Watch out, watch out, there is a rip off about…!!!

Il Faro - Oristano, Via Bellini, 25.

Faded and reliant on past glory, also quite expensive.

Craf - Oristano, Via De Castro, 34.

Sometimes the best place to eat in town, sometimes very disappointing especially due to poor service. Overall inconsistent

La Pantera - Oristano, Via Vittorio Veneto, 161.

Diabolical service. After having begged for food you will leave hungry and frustrated (you might want to punch a waiter!!!!).